The Urban Bourbon Trail

The clinking of glasses and sparkling laughter echoing off wood-paneled walls, caramel liquor in shining decanters, and wisps of smoke from a lit cigarette - these were the ghosts I imagined about The Old Seelbach Bar as we began on the Urban Bourbon Trail - similar in conception to the Bourbon Trail, but localized about Louisville.

The Seelbach Hotel has certainly seen its share of celebrities during its storied history and contributed in its own way to Americana - in fact, it served as the inspiration for the hotel where Tom and Daisy Buchanan got married in The Great Gatsby.  I love the Rathskeller Room too - one of their banquet rooms that is modeled (and named) after basement restaurant/bar spaces found under German city halls where council members and other people would congregate to discuss business, politics, and the shenanigans of the day.  For all the progress that has been made, I do love some of the old-world luxury feel from the Art Deco period.

Anyway, from The Seelbach, we wandered to the Maker's Mark Lounge at 4th Street Live and Asiatique.  On Sunday we also made it to Corbett's and Limestone.  I finished out my trip just one stamp shy of a free t-shirt for the Urban Bourbon Trail, a little bit intentionally so I'd have to go back!

Very Art Deco.  Not surprise F. Scott Fitzgerald drew inspiration from this place.

Got some practice with portraiture!  Ashley, rocking her model face, as usual.

Stamp in my passport!

An overhead light in the Rathskeller Room

<3 Maker's, did not <3 the bartender who stamped my passport upside down and made a crappy recommendation for my bourbon tasting flight.

Go big or go home: Pappy Van Winkle, aged 23 years, neat.  Easily the most expensive 2oz I've ever had.

More of the Urban Bourbon Trail
Hours to Date: 60

So What is Bourbon Anyway? And There's a Trail?

Bourbon is a type of whiskey, which is an umbrella term that generally refers to a distilled beverage made from a mash of cereal grain that has been fermented (read: sugars -> alcohol) generally aged for some time in some kind of wooden barrel.

Bourbon is an American whiskey (there are other varieties like Scotch, Irish, Canadian, etc.) specifically made from a mash that consists of at least 51% corn.  In addition to that, there are a number of other technical requirements like being aged in new, charred oak barrels and how much alcohol can be present in the liquor in each stage of the process.  Bourbon actually derives its distinct caramel color from the charred oak barrels - it's clear when it goes into the barrel (aka: moonshine).

The color comes from aging in charred oak barrels

The Bourbon Trail is essentially a tourism program (read: clever marketing strategy) by the Kentucky Distillers' Association to promote bourbon - as if it really needs any help, there's currently a bourbon shortage due to its increasing popularity as a beverage and time needed to increase supply (due to aging).  In any case, the Bourbon Trail consists of 7 major distilleries in Kentucky and if you visit each and get a stamp in the passport, you can return to the visitor's center and get a free t-shirt.

I made it to 2 of the 7, but I made them count since I was most interested in these two - Maker's Mark (my favorite bourbon) in Loretto and Woodford Reserve in Versailles.  Unlike Napa wineries, these distilleries aren't situated just one plot of land over... some of these distilleries are almost 2 hours from the next and on windy back country roads - largely because good bourbon hinges on clean and pure water, which is what really determined the location for these distilleries.

Photographing and adventuring on the Bourbon Trail was the entire impetus behind the trip to Louisville and besides the hours I already posted spent in Downtown Louisville, I managed to get in another 11 active shooting hours over 2 days and another 3 hours reviewing photos, bringing my grand total to 60 hours!!

The name Maker's Mark was inspired by the trademarks on Marjorie Samuels' pewter collection

I dipped a bottle of Maker's White, only available at their distillery, and it survived my checked luggage!

En route to Woodford Reserve in Versailles... pronounced by locals as "Ver-saylez," which made me cringe.

Sour mash... yeast + cereal grains + water = fermentation.  Sugar being converted to alcohol!

Peering into one of the copper stills

Barrels of bourbon, aging quietly

Hours to Date: 60

More Bourbon

Lou-ee-ville or Lou-a-vulle or Lou-vulle?

According to Wikipedia, the technically correct pronunciation is Lou-ee-ville, as in King Louis XVI.  But all the locals I've talked to all pronounce it "Lou-a-vulle" or "Lou-vulle" when they're talking real fast.  As they say, when in Rome... or in this case, when in Louisville...

I spent my morning exploring Museum Row, which is a fantastic segment of Downtown Louisville that has several museums and shops within a 3 block radius.  Highlight of my morning was definitely checking out the Louisville Slugger Factory where I went on a factory tour (sadly, no photography allowed inside) and got a souvenir mini bat.  Apparently, the mini bats are the single most confiscated item from carry-on luggage out of SDF.  Fortunately, I always check luggage since I need all of my creature comfort make up, hair products, and shoes when traveling and have never mastered the art of packing light.

From there, I...
...ambled down to the Muhammad Ali Center and took in some culture and history
...waved across the Ohio River at Indiana
...met up with my sorority sister and hospitable hostess Ashley for lunch at Proof on Main
...took in all the modern art in the gallery at 21-C
...watched glass blowing and sculpting at the Mark Payton Glass Center

Thus far, I'm loving the home-town feel of this city and the absolutely amazing food and drink... and I've only really experienced one meal so far!  For lunch, I had a grilled cheese with cheddar, green apple, and bacon jam with truffle fries paired with this tart grapefruit cocktail.  Such a random combination of ingredients, but they just worked - the tang of the apple and sharp cheddar cut through the fatty savory bacon jam for a perfectly balanced bite.  Good thing I don't live in the South or else I would definitely blow up.

It's going to be an awesome weekend of explorations and eats.

I had to crouch down awkwardly next to this trashcan for this shot, but it ended up being one of my favorites from today

Louisville Sluggers in various finishes.  Official bats of the MLB - apparently it takes ~40,000 trees to supply ONE season's worth of bats!!  Good thing they source the wood from managed forests.

Incredibly detailed Lego model of Wrigley Field - 57,960 bricks and 27 days to piece together.

Ohio River - Indiana to the right, Kentucky to the left

Red penguins atop 21-C

Sculpting glass

Active Shooting Hours: 3
Review Hours: 1

Total Hours to Date: 45

More Downtown Louisville

Drinkcation Part II

I caved and paid for in-air wifi and so this post is brought to you from somewhere over Missouri.  Here I am on the second leg of my journey to Louisville, Kentucky - a city I've never been to before and I can't contain my excitement despite the fact that the overall reaction by friends and family has been puzzled bewilderment at going someplace so seemingly random.  It actually isn't random at all - I have a sorority sister who lives in Louisville and Kentucky is home to the Bourbon Trail - a fitting stop on my drinkcation.

It's amazing how quickly the first week flew by, as I'm sure this second half will as well.  Nevertheless, I intend to enjoy every moment, especially since I'll be in an entirely foreign town and the northernmost bastion of the South.  Bring on the bourbon and the southern comfort food!

A career I never considered before was travel blogging, but it really does fit my inquisitive nature and thirst for knowledge, captured not only in photos but in words.  But, as I absolutely abhor packing and have the distinct habit of bringing many accoutrements with me, I'm not sure that I'm cut out for the jet set life.  That and the realization that east of the Rockies is practically a different world with Blue Laws and dry counties - not sure I would do well in such places for an extended period of time!

Ready for adventure!!

Berkeley by Day, San Francisco by Night

Not unlike college days of old, I wandered Berkeley by day and then hopped on BART to play in the city at night.  It's amazing how natural it all felt and there was the bonus of being mistaken for a student and a local when more than one person stopped me for directions.  I also retained my uncanny ability to nap on BART and wake up just in time for my stop - mildly interesting superpower?

Despite loving the conveniences and logical city planning of suburban paradise, I do find the order confining and uninspiring at times.  It's hard to find inspiration when you're staring at the back of a Prius that nearly backed into you in the parking lot of Whole Foods (true story).  Still, I find that plenty of people who live in the old cities with architectural masterpieces let their mundane daily agendas drive their attention and they miss the forest for the trees.  It's probably why they always say it's important to travel and see the world for all the wonders it has to offer.

This was also my first attempt at nighttime photography with a tripod - definitely a third time's a charm situation since I lugged that thing all over the place and finally got to use it my last night in the city.  Good thing it's only 2lbs and conveniently fits into my camera bag.  Also would have doubled nicely as a makeshift bludgeon in the unlikely yet possible event that we would have been jumped by weirdos.  I love how the shots came out even though they were pretty stock in nature and not particularly visually dramatic.

Campanile over Wheeler - some of my favorite classes were in that building

Sather Gate - fun discovery: the lights have swirly lightbulbs in them

Two of the larger bells of the carillon in the Campanile

San Francisco City Hall

Columns at the Palace of Fine Arts

Palace of Fine Arts

Seeing the city through the trees

Coit Tower

The Bay Lights installation on the Bay Bridge

Hours to Date: 41
More Berkeley
More San Francisco in the Dark

On Sundays, We Have Brunch

I miss Sunday brunches in San Francisco... and more specifically, Sunday brunches in the Castro, the veritable gay Mecca of the world.  There are so many fantastic and amazingly delicious little bistros and cafes, all replete with eggs benedict, bacon, mimosas, and bloody marys - the latter two generally having some kind of bottomless form.  Sure, there are Sunday brunches elsewhere, but they just aren't the same.  And it's always one of those game on brunches when one is specifically told to take BART into the city so no one has to drive.

Aside from the amazing food, there's always something to see and someone to meet in the Castro, whether it be the random guerrilla artwork that pops up or some bedazzled festival-goer.  And among all of the characters, I've met some genuinely hilarious, accepting, and fun people there - it's a refreshing thing to be in a place where people can have a good time without passing judgment or ridicule.  In fact, we saw some of the attendees of Dore Alley later in the afternoon.  An offshoot of the Folsom Street Festival, Dore Alley is also a leather and BDSM festival and the attendees definitely get all decked out with leashes, harnesses, and assless chaps.  To date, I still haven't managed a trip to the Castro without seeing at least a few naked butts at some point during the day, but more power to them... I definitely would not be shaking my cheeks to the wind.

Don't worry, I kept all the photos G rated.

Above-ground power lines

No mistaking which neighborhood we're in

Bear crossing?  Pretty sure that's not a city-sanctioned sign!

Aptly-named "millionaire's bacon" - so good.  And I inhaled the rest of my brunch before getting pictures :(.

Found hanging off the side of a building - a gay mobile with kissing Ken dolls.  I really wish I had my zoom lens on, but had to settle for the 35mm since we were migrating to the next stop.

Hours to Date: 36

Drinkcation: Tour of Napa

Napa is an interesting place and even though I used to live only an hour away, it always took forever to get to the wineries, which are tucked away along back roads and spanning the little towns of St. Helena, Yountville, and Calistoga.  It's especially problematic when tourists want to take in the view but don't want to hire a car service, so they slowpoke along on a 2-laned road while all the rest of us are dying slowly and miserably behind them at well below the speed limit.
Even though Napa is perhaps the first place that comes to mind when one thinks about American wine regions, it's actually one of the smallest by area and only 4% of the wine produced in California comes from the Napa Valley.  I still argue that it's quality over quantity in this case.  There are 15 sub-regions within the Napa Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA) and they span all different elevations and soils.  I find myself partial to volcanic, loamy, mountain soils of Atlas Peak, Stag's Leap, Howell Mountain, and Spring Mountain... consistently, I'll taste and pick out wines from these areas because they're so bold and tannin heavy.

We started off our morning with wine blending at Conn Creek, this awesome activity of trying 15 different varietals of Cabernet and mixing them along with 4 other wines (Merlot, Cab Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot) to create a red blend.  Since I was still recovering from the raucous night before and having done wine blending at Conn before, I just went straight to my favorite regions and tried a blend.  First time ended up being the charm and I ended up bottling that one.  Despite being in pain all morning, I still got some great pictures and had a blast - probably a function of the company I kept.

The rest of the day was actually not as fun - it was an exercise in trying not to tell off everyone - from the pretentious asshole that we kept running into or the crap service we received during lunch and at a later tasting.  Even though I may look young, I have no problem dropping major dollars on wine and I have absolutely done just that before on pretty much every excursion to Napa without batting an eye.  But since the service was so awful, I passed this time.  Oh well, at least we'll always have the pictures.

Ready to blend away!

Those are some big barrels

Bottling the winning blend

Corking's a workout!

Through the looking glass

Soon... sort of.

Hours to Date: 32

The Coldest Winter I Ever Spent was a Summer in San Francisco

The coolest quote Mark Twain never actually said... though it's a pithy witticism that would be so characteristic of one Samuel Clemens.  It was seriously cold though, a brisk wind the entire morning and a gloomy fog hanging over the city that never fully lifted.

I love visiting this city though I would never want to live here... like other great American cities of old, I find a lot of inspiration and room for reflection when surrounded by buildings and monuments that have seen the best and the worst of things - if only the walls could speak, what would they say?

We began our morning with coffee at Four Barrel and breakfast at Tartine in the Mission and then found our way in Russian Hill at Lombard & Hyde among the tourists to look at the 8 hairpin turns of that crooked street.  From there, we headed to Fisherman's Wharf & Pier 39 and waved across the bay at the Campanile, which we only found through the haze by finding The Claremont Hotel first.  After lunch at Boudin's to have the famously tart sourdough (apparently unique because of the humidity & weather in the Bay - the starter dough was actually brought from Europe, but after being exposed to SF weather, it developed that characteristic sourness), we made a quick jaunt to Fort Point to get pictures of Golden Gate before heading back.  I also made a detour to Bi-Rite before jumping on BART back to the East Bay.

I'm behind in posting since I also took pictures in Napa and brunch in the Castro, but those will come soon when I get a free moment from taking pictures to actually update and post!

Coit Tower & Bay Bridge from the top of Hyde & Lombard - I clambered up and nearly fell off a brick wall getting this shot

Walking around Fisherman's Wharf

Alcatraz, as seen from Fisherman's Wharf

Sea lions at Pier 39

Practicing for the America's Cup

Bay Bridge from Pier 39

Berkeley & the Campanile from Pier 39, zoomed in and contrast increased to see through the haze

The bar at Boudin's

Golden Gate with the characteristic fog hanging about

Vaillancourt Fountain with the Ferry Building clock tower in the background

Hours to Date: 30

T-minus 1 hour and 27 minutes

I'm about to jet off on my first real vacation in a year's time.  This marks several firsts for me: the first vacation I've taken that will last more than 5 consecutive days. And the first one that I don't have my work laptop in tow.  And the craziness of that all really only hits me as I sit and commit those statements to writing via iPad at the airport bar.

I'm definitely excited for my adventures both to the familiar haunts of San Francisco and Napa, and the new jaunt to Louisville... But also a little terrified at the prospect of being removed from email and my laptop, which I elected to leave at home at the behest of people who care about me and my sanity. 

Luckily, my excitement is overtaking my anxiety and I'm sure with wine, bourbon, and miscellaneous cocktails on the docket, this "drinkcation" (as I have affectionately dubbed it) will be the mental refresh I need to get the creative juices flowing again.