Dream Big

Awestruck.

That's the best word to describe the feeling one experiences when looking up at Hearst Castle.  Dreamed up by newspaper magnate, William Randolph Hearst, and designed by architectural glass-ceiling-buster, Julia Morgan, this property is truly stunning.  To me, it's a reminder of what can result from a lot of work and little luck.  Luck, of course, being what happens when preparation meets opportunity.  Of course, life isn't all about work and this place wasn't Hearst's main abode, but a vacation home of sorts.

Despite being referenced as "The Little Ranch" and described as a side project for Morgan, it's incredible what can result from a labor of love, skilled artisans, and a ridiculous amount of wealth.  Perhaps it's because I'm not familiar with current trends in art, architecture, or decor, but it seems to me that there isn't the same value or importance attributed to quality craftsmanship or attention to detail now.  At the very least, it doesn't seem that it's a priority.  Of course, that could just be a blind spot... after all, I lack a sample from today's wealthy and it's always said that history is written by the victors and the rich.

In any case, I've been wanting to photograph Hearst Castle since I started this project and I'm glad I was finally able to plan the trip.  Logistically, it can be a difficult trip to plan since it's approximately 4 hours from either Los Angeles or San Francisco and removed from major cities.  In part, that's what makes it so picturesque - there's no development within 13 miles of the property.

These were from just the first day of a 5 day lap around my old haunts in Northern California to celebrate the end of an era and the new adventures to come.  On this day, we drove up to San Simeon via the 101 (after detouring around a ridiculous milk truck accident) and continued up the Pacific Coast Highway through Big Sur and on to Monterey for the night.

More to come once I get a chance to update.

Casa Grande - the main house... over 60,000 square feet of house.

Hearst's Gothic Study, where yellow journalism was perfected.  I dream of a workspace like this.

He collected ceilings... that's right, ceilings.

Neptune Pool

With this view and a private airstrip for easy access, this seems like paradise.

An elephant seal flipping sand on itself at Piedras Blancas, just north of Hearst Castle.

Rain Rocks Rock Shed, opened just in January.  Built by Caltrans to protect this section from falling rock.  It actually shepherds falling rock directly into the Pacific Ocean instead of onto the road.

The rocky shore, from a viewpoint alongside PCH

 More

Active Shooting Hours: 6
Review Hours: 3
Hours to Date: 122

All Over the Place

Since my last post, I've been caught in a whirlwind of travel, adventures, and organized chaos.  I've seen the Book of Mormon, traipsed all over Santa Monica and Hollywood, been waylaid by snowstorms and freezing rain in DC, Richmond, and Houston, went shooting at an outdoor range, experienced an excruciating corneal abrasion, and did a lap up the California coast around old Bay Area haunts to celebrate the end of an era.  It's been a crazy month with no real time to update, but I have logged considerable hours for the project, especially on the trip.

On the corneal abrasion note... don't get one, they're an especially terrible misery.  Long story short, my hard contact lens cracked and developed a hole while on my eye and scraped the hell out of my cornea before I was able to get to the optometrist for treatment.  It's like having sandpaper for an eyelid until the epithelial cells regenerate and I was incredibly sensitive to light.  Even a full week later, my vision in that eye is still blurrier than usual.

In any case, when I get a chance to review the trip photos more thoroughly, I'll post those.  In the meantime, a smattering of iPhone-based photos from various treks.

Beignets from The Beachcomber Cafe

Pigeon trying to sneak in for some brunch

Making the best of a bad situation with authentic southern shrimp & grits after a flight cancellation and getting stuck in Houston overnight en route to Richmond, VA

Snow, ice, and a baby plane at Dulles International while trying to get to Richmond

The speakeasy life - Bourbon & Branch in San Francisco

Combined Active Shooting Hours:1
Review Hours: 1
Hours to Date: 113

Some Days and Some Places are Just More Inspiring than Others

I've felt a certain photographer's block for the past month - images just didn't manifest for me and what I saw didn't translate to what was captured.  I've come to find that the largest discrepancy between what I see and what my camera sees generally occurs when the lighting is poor.  My favored light is just natural sunlight - it's not too yellow and not too blue, both of which just mercilessly  flatten interesting contrasts and focal points.  Part of it was also due to the fact that I've been busy in suburban paradise (hell?) lately and the cookie cutter nature with tract housing isn't exactly conducive to interesting photos.

In any case, when I found out I needed to travel for work, I immediately took the opportunity to tack on a side trip to Philadelphia to practice looking for interesting subjects.  I've never been to Philadelphia before, so I took the opportunity to learn some Jeopardy-esque factoids:

• The city is actually quite literally called "Brotherly Love," from the Greek philos (loving) and adelphos (brother). 
• It's the 5th most populous city in the United States, behind New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, and Houston.  Also fun factoid, I've now been to all Top 5 cities.
• Founded by William Penn, a Quaker, as a colony of religious tolerance.  Despite having a charter from the British, he actually bought land from the local native tribes to maintain their good will, which actually helped the colony flourish more quickly than others during the time.
• Best known regional foods include the cheesesteak and soft pretzels - largely from German influence and roots.

Of course, as luck would have it, I ended up in Philly amidst the federal government shutdown, which meant that every national park operated landmark (i.e. Independence Hall, the Liberty Bell, and the homes of Edgar Allan Poe and Betsy Ross) were all closed and in some cases, barricaded.  To add insult to injury, it was raining, so I traipsed about negotiating an umbrella, a smart phone based map, and my actual camera.

Still, Philadelphia is a fascinating city with Old World and New World feel - I do love my Federal & Greek Revival architecture and in a city with the history of Philadelphia - these are intertwined with the newest and shiniest of high rises.  In some ways, that was a challenge - to capture the character of buildings without the noise of people, cars, and other buildings intruding on an otherwise interesting shot.  I wonder if long-time Philadelphians (or other big city dwellers) rush past these buildings and monuments because they're so everyday for them.

Photographically speaking, I think I made some real progress with this trip.  I actually shot many of the photos with a circular polarizing filter, which was moot since it was shrouded in a cloudy and drizzly haze the entire time I was there, but at least it protected my lens from the wet.  Also in the review time, I actually experimented with some digital editing to punch up the qualities of the photo like color and contrast to better evoke what I felt in the moment.  I'm sure there are purists out there who would argue that that digital manipulation and filters is cheating, but I would rebut that photography is about capturing the mood and visually interesting aspects of a scene.  After all, it's a form of art.  And even Ansel Adams, one of the photographic greats, was known for using filters and developing processes such as dodging and burning to enhance the mood of his images.

Contemplated jumping this barrier to the Liberty Bell (which is outside) until we saw a guard posted, probably to prevent us from doing just that.

So close, yet so far.  Focal B&W filter applied.

The Signer - to commemorate the courage of those who signed the Declaration of Independence
and put their names to their words.

Chinatown gate, with lomo effects applied.

The menu at Tommy DiNic's in the Reading Terminal Market

City Hall through the urban jungle

This T. Rex was animatronic, with a motion sensor - a fact I discovered when I went to take a shot and nearly dropped my camera when it roared at me and started moving.  I wonder if there was a hidden camera feed into the Academy of Natural Sciences... that would be amusing to watch because I was definitely startled.

Active Shooting Hours: 6
Review Hours: 4
Total Hours to Date: 70

Kentuckian Cuisine

Prior to my trip out to Louisville, I never really thought extensively about the food of Kentucky beyond Harlan Sanders's Kentucky Fried Chicken.  I found foods of Louisville to be a wonderful balance of southern decadence sprinkled with international influence.  Not so southern that I felt like a stick of butter was about to lodge itself and harden in my arteries, but southern in that there were fried elements, collard greens, and cornbread.  And while there is some component of Midwestern influence (since Kentucky borders Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio to the north), it wasn't obnoxious like the previous run-ins I've had with Midwestern food (cheddar cheese melted on apple pie really doesn't work).

Unsurprisingly, between San Francisco and Louisville, I managed to gain about 7lbs.  Luckily, 2 of those were just water weight as a result of increased salt intake.  I've managed to whittle down the remainder and am almost back down to pre-drinkcation weight by getting runs and weights in and getting back onto the low-carb wagon.

I am not usually one to take pictures of my food, but I really felt compelled to, despite the fact that I'd be fulfilling the cringe-worthy Asian tourist stereotype.  As far as picture quality, the restaurants were all a little dark so I had to open up the aperture and ended up with less than optimal focusing... good thing I didn't go into this aspiring to be a food stylist/photographer.

The bourbon balls were left unguarded at Woodford... little dark chocolate truffles with chocolate bourbon filling - definitely took home a couple boxes for gifts and bad mood pick me ups.

Tournedos topped with sweet potato curls and sweetbreads, cooked rare, of course.

Hands down the best eggs benedict I've ever had with avocado, chorizo, and topped on a corn cake.

More Noms
Hours to Date: 60

So What is Bourbon Anyway? And There's a Trail?

Bourbon is a type of whiskey, which is an umbrella term that generally refers to a distilled beverage made from a mash of cereal grain that has been fermented (read: sugars -> alcohol) generally aged for some time in some kind of wooden barrel.

Bourbon is an American whiskey (there are other varieties like Scotch, Irish, Canadian, etc.) specifically made from a mash that consists of at least 51% corn.  In addition to that, there are a number of other technical requirements like being aged in new, charred oak barrels and how much alcohol can be present in the liquor in each stage of the process.  Bourbon actually derives its distinct caramel color from the charred oak barrels - it's clear when it goes into the barrel (aka: moonshine).

The color comes from aging in charred oak barrels

The Bourbon Trail is essentially a tourism program (read: clever marketing strategy) by the Kentucky Distillers' Association to promote bourbon - as if it really needs any help, there's currently a bourbon shortage due to its increasing popularity as a beverage and time needed to increase supply (due to aging).  In any case, the Bourbon Trail consists of 7 major distilleries in Kentucky and if you visit each and get a stamp in the passport, you can return to the visitor's center and get a free t-shirt.

I made it to 2 of the 7, but I made them count since I was most interested in these two - Maker's Mark (my favorite bourbon) in Loretto and Woodford Reserve in Versailles.  Unlike Napa wineries, these distilleries aren't situated just one plot of land over... some of these distilleries are almost 2 hours from the next and on windy back country roads - largely because good bourbon hinges on clean and pure water, which is what really determined the location for these distilleries.

Photographing and adventuring on the Bourbon Trail was the entire impetus behind the trip to Louisville and besides the hours I already posted spent in Downtown Louisville, I managed to get in another 11 active shooting hours over 2 days and another 3 hours reviewing photos, bringing my grand total to 60 hours!!

The name Maker's Mark was inspired by the trademarks on Marjorie Samuels' pewter collection

I dipped a bottle of Maker's White, only available at their distillery, and it survived my checked luggage!

En route to Woodford Reserve in Versailles... pronounced by locals as "Ver-saylez," which made me cringe.

Sour mash... yeast + cereal grains + water = fermentation.  Sugar being converted to alcohol!

Peering into one of the copper stills

Barrels of bourbon, aging quietly

Hours to Date: 60

More Bourbon

Lou-ee-ville or Lou-a-vulle or Lou-vulle?

According to Wikipedia, the technically correct pronunciation is Lou-ee-ville, as in King Louis XVI.  But all the locals I've talked to all pronounce it "Lou-a-vulle" or "Lou-vulle" when they're talking real fast.  As they say, when in Rome... or in this case, when in Louisville...

I spent my morning exploring Museum Row, which is a fantastic segment of Downtown Louisville that has several museums and shops within a 3 block radius.  Highlight of my morning was definitely checking out the Louisville Slugger Factory where I went on a factory tour (sadly, no photography allowed inside) and got a souvenir mini bat.  Apparently, the mini bats are the single most confiscated item from carry-on luggage out of SDF.  Fortunately, I always check luggage since I need all of my creature comfort make up, hair products, and shoes when traveling and have never mastered the art of packing light.

From there, I...
...ambled down to the Muhammad Ali Center and took in some culture and history
...waved across the Ohio River at Indiana
...met up with my sorority sister and hospitable hostess Ashley for lunch at Proof on Main
...took in all the modern art in the gallery at 21-C
...watched glass blowing and sculpting at the Mark Payton Glass Center

Thus far, I'm loving the home-town feel of this city and the absolutely amazing food and drink... and I've only really experienced one meal so far!  For lunch, I had a grilled cheese with cheddar, green apple, and bacon jam with truffle fries paired with this tart grapefruit cocktail.  Such a random combination of ingredients, but they just worked - the tang of the apple and sharp cheddar cut through the fatty savory bacon jam for a perfectly balanced bite.  Good thing I don't live in the South or else I would definitely blow up.

It's going to be an awesome weekend of explorations and eats.

I had to crouch down awkwardly next to this trashcan for this shot, but it ended up being one of my favorites from today

Louisville Sluggers in various finishes.  Official bats of the MLB - apparently it takes ~40,000 trees to supply ONE season's worth of bats!!  Good thing they source the wood from managed forests.

Incredibly detailed Lego model of Wrigley Field - 57,960 bricks and 27 days to piece together.

Ohio River - Indiana to the right, Kentucky to the left

Red penguins atop 21-C

Sculpting glass

Active Shooting Hours: 3
Review Hours: 1

Total Hours to Date: 45

More Downtown Louisville

Drinkcation Part II

I caved and paid for in-air wifi and so this post is brought to you from somewhere over Missouri.  Here I am on the second leg of my journey to Louisville, Kentucky - a city I've never been to before and I can't contain my excitement despite the fact that the overall reaction by friends and family has been puzzled bewilderment at going someplace so seemingly random.  It actually isn't random at all - I have a sorority sister who lives in Louisville and Kentucky is home to the Bourbon Trail - a fitting stop on my drinkcation.

It's amazing how quickly the first week flew by, as I'm sure this second half will as well.  Nevertheless, I intend to enjoy every moment, especially since I'll be in an entirely foreign town and the northernmost bastion of the South.  Bring on the bourbon and the southern comfort food!

A career I never considered before was travel blogging, but it really does fit my inquisitive nature and thirst for knowledge, captured not only in photos but in words.  But, as I absolutely abhor packing and have the distinct habit of bringing many accoutrements with me, I'm not sure that I'm cut out for the jet set life.  That and the realization that east of the Rockies is practically a different world with Blue Laws and dry counties - not sure I would do well in such places for an extended period of time!

Ready for adventure!!

On Sundays, We Have Brunch

I miss Sunday brunches in San Francisco... and more specifically, Sunday brunches in the Castro, the veritable gay Mecca of the world.  There are so many fantastic and amazingly delicious little bistros and cafes, all replete with eggs benedict, bacon, mimosas, and bloody marys - the latter two generally having some kind of bottomless form.  Sure, there are Sunday brunches elsewhere, but they just aren't the same.  And it's always one of those game on brunches when one is specifically told to take BART into the city so no one has to drive.

Aside from the amazing food, there's always something to see and someone to meet in the Castro, whether it be the random guerrilla artwork that pops up or some bedazzled festival-goer.  And among all of the characters, I've met some genuinely hilarious, accepting, and fun people there - it's a refreshing thing to be in a place where people can have a good time without passing judgment or ridicule.  In fact, we saw some of the attendees of Dore Alley later in the afternoon.  An offshoot of the Folsom Street Festival, Dore Alley is also a leather and BDSM festival and the attendees definitely get all decked out with leashes, harnesses, and assless chaps.  To date, I still haven't managed a trip to the Castro without seeing at least a few naked butts at some point during the day, but more power to them... I definitely would not be shaking my cheeks to the wind.

Don't worry, I kept all the photos G rated.

Above-ground power lines

No mistaking which neighborhood we're in

Bear crossing?  Pretty sure that's not a city-sanctioned sign!

Aptly-named "millionaire's bacon" - so good.  And I inhaled the rest of my brunch before getting pictures :(.

Found hanging off the side of a building - a gay mobile with kissing Ken dolls.  I really wish I had my zoom lens on, but had to settle for the 35mm since we were migrating to the next stop.

Hours to Date: 36

Drinkcation: Tour of Napa

Napa is an interesting place and even though I used to live only an hour away, it always took forever to get to the wineries, which are tucked away along back roads and spanning the little towns of St. Helena, Yountville, and Calistoga.  It's especially problematic when tourists want to take in the view but don't want to hire a car service, so they slowpoke along on a 2-laned road while all the rest of us are dying slowly and miserably behind them at well below the speed limit.
Even though Napa is perhaps the first place that comes to mind when one thinks about American wine regions, it's actually one of the smallest by area and only 4% of the wine produced in California comes from the Napa Valley.  I still argue that it's quality over quantity in this case.  There are 15 sub-regions within the Napa Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA) and they span all different elevations and soils.  I find myself partial to volcanic, loamy, mountain soils of Atlas Peak, Stag's Leap, Howell Mountain, and Spring Mountain... consistently, I'll taste and pick out wines from these areas because they're so bold and tannin heavy.

We started off our morning with wine blending at Conn Creek, this awesome activity of trying 15 different varietals of Cabernet and mixing them along with 4 other wines (Merlot, Cab Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot) to create a red blend.  Since I was still recovering from the raucous night before and having done wine blending at Conn before, I just went straight to my favorite regions and tried a blend.  First time ended up being the charm and I ended up bottling that one.  Despite being in pain all morning, I still got some great pictures and had a blast - probably a function of the company I kept.

The rest of the day was actually not as fun - it was an exercise in trying not to tell off everyone - from the pretentious asshole that we kept running into or the crap service we received during lunch and at a later tasting.  Even though I may look young, I have no problem dropping major dollars on wine and I have absolutely done just that before on pretty much every excursion to Napa without batting an eye.  But since the service was so awful, I passed this time.  Oh well, at least we'll always have the pictures.

Ready to blend away!

Those are some big barrels

Bottling the winning blend

Corking's a workout!

Through the looking glass

Soon... sort of.

Hours to Date: 32

The Coldest Winter I Ever Spent was a Summer in San Francisco

The coolest quote Mark Twain never actually said... though it's a pithy witticism that would be so characteristic of one Samuel Clemens.  It was seriously cold though, a brisk wind the entire morning and a gloomy fog hanging over the city that never fully lifted.

I love visiting this city though I would never want to live here... like other great American cities of old, I find a lot of inspiration and room for reflection when surrounded by buildings and monuments that have seen the best and the worst of things - if only the walls could speak, what would they say?

We began our morning with coffee at Four Barrel and breakfast at Tartine in the Mission and then found our way in Russian Hill at Lombard & Hyde among the tourists to look at the 8 hairpin turns of that crooked street.  From there, we headed to Fisherman's Wharf & Pier 39 and waved across the bay at the Campanile, which we only found through the haze by finding The Claremont Hotel first.  After lunch at Boudin's to have the famously tart sourdough (apparently unique because of the humidity & weather in the Bay - the starter dough was actually brought from Europe, but after being exposed to SF weather, it developed that characteristic sourness), we made a quick jaunt to Fort Point to get pictures of Golden Gate before heading back.  I also made a detour to Bi-Rite before jumping on BART back to the East Bay.

I'm behind in posting since I also took pictures in Napa and brunch in the Castro, but those will come soon when I get a free moment from taking pictures to actually update and post!

Coit Tower & Bay Bridge from the top of Hyde & Lombard - I clambered up and nearly fell off a brick wall getting this shot

Walking around Fisherman's Wharf

Alcatraz, as seen from Fisherman's Wharf

Sea lions at Pier 39

Practicing for the America's Cup

Bay Bridge from Pier 39

Berkeley & the Campanile from Pier 39, zoomed in and contrast increased to see through the haze

The bar at Boudin's

Golden Gate with the characteristic fog hanging about

Vaillancourt Fountain with the Ferry Building clock tower in the background

Hours to Date: 30